Archive for December, 2007

prison island

When we awoke on Tuesday morning, the heavy wind had still not died down and the beach was ominously filled with hundreds of dead fish. We elected to rent motorcycles and see the sites around town. We quickly discovered that everything is closed unless accompanied by an official guide. We found that the prison tour is available from the Con Dao Museum for 15,000 dong per person, including a souvenir lapel pin. Con Dao operated as a brutal prison island from 1861 when the French shut in the first political prisoners at Trai Phu Hai, through the American War years, to 1985 when the Vietnamese relocated their prisoners to the mainland in order to turn the island into a sort of a revolutionary theme park.

 

con dao arrival

After gazing down at 100 km of white-capped sea, we landed at Con Dao airport late on Monday afternoon. The island currently has three beach hotels to choose from. We elected to go with the Con Dao Resort, the only to have its own beach. This turned out to be the hot spot for pilgriming party cadres to loudly drink sea snake wine or goat fetus wine and bear bile starting first thing in the morning.

 

happy holidays

 

zoeallegra.com

Zoe has now got her own web site: http://zoeallegra.com. So far, she’s got her letters of congratulations up, and soon will have photos and videos and more. Check it out and keep tuned in.

 

war to peace

Tim Page opened an exhibition of his photographs at Cantina Central last night. He and I have crossed paths many times in Vietnam and Cambodia over the last fifteen years. I also ran into a bunch of old friends who have remained in Vietnam since Trinh and I left in 2000.

 

seasoning zoe

The weather in Saigon has become increasingly hot in the last week, so emphasis has changed from keeping Zoe as warm as possible to as cool as possible. And there’s no better way to cool baby down than to rub her with cỏ mực leaves.

 

giác hơi

I’ve been feeling a bit under the weather lately. A low-grade cold, caused no doubt by a bad wind. Definitely time for a giác hơi. Chị Sương swabs glass cups with an alcohol torch, and quickly places them on my back. The vacuum created when the air inside the cup cools sucks up my skin deep into the cups.

 

It leaves a hell of a mark. There have been many cases when Vietnamese families in America have nearly been sent to jail for child abuse.

 

enhanced interrogation

Zoe wasn’t real thrilled with the nasal irrigation during her doctor’s appointment on Friday. No surprise there really. Being held down on her back with her head inclined and water poured into her nose reminds me bit of something else.

 

projecting into the night

I checked out the opening of Hoang Duong Cam’s exhibit at Galerie Quynh on Thursday night. Good stuff, and the new gallery on De Tham Street is very nice. The exhibit, titled “Projecting into the night what has gone with the dawn”, runs until 5 January.

 

ministry of truth

It’s been a rather Orwellian experience trying to get an official Vietnamese birth certificate. We first hired a lawyer, and gave her all the requested papers the day after Zoe’s birth. The following day, she said I needed to write a letter authorizing my permission for the birth certificate. Which then had to me notarized by the US Consulate. Which then had to be officially translated by the Department of Foreign affairs. When the lawyer brought all the paperwork to the Department of Civil Affairs, she was told that the law had changed and we had to go directly to the People’s Committee of the Ward of Di Van’s house. The lawyer said we were now on our own and kept the deposit. The local People’s Committee said no problem if the price is right. After paying them off, they said that a birth certificate can only be issued if the parents are residents in Vietnam. Then they said that they weren’t sure what to do, and would have to check with the District-level People’s Committee. Who also didn’t want to deal with it. So the Ward People’s Committee suggested we talk directly to the Department of Civil Affairs. The People’s Committee said we were now on our own and kept the deposit. The Department of Foreign Affairs said our lawyers must have been confused and that the new law only pertains to residents of Vietnam. They would be happy to help us as long as we first produced another letter stating that Huỳnh Tú Trinh and Trinh Potkin are the same person. Which then has to be notarized by the US Consulate. Which then has to be officially translated by the Department of Foreign Affairs…

 


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