
The Gumbo Pages says that phở is the “Vietnamese gumbo”, but as far as I’m concerned that honor could only go to bún mắm. Originating from the bayous of Sóc Trăng Province in the Mekong Delta, eating bún mắm is like eating the swamp itself. In a very good way. The broth is made from pork and fermented fish, with thick rice noodles and big chunks of cá lóc, shrimp, squid, and roast pork. But what really sets bún mắm apart from other noodles is the rau. In addition the the regular giá and rau quế, there’s bắp chuối, hẹ, rau đắng, rau thơm, bông súng, and thèo nèo. I can’t figure out what thèo nèo is, but Trinh says it’s a floating plant that the Vietcong hid under when the Americans came down the river.